May 14, 2012 – Don’t cry for Hovenweep

After another breakfast of cold cereal at the Super 8 in Blanding, Utah, we left for the ancient ruins of Hovenweep National Monument.  Hovenweep is surrounded by the Canyons of the Ancients National Monument which includes more than 6000 archaeological sites.  When we arrived, we were the first visitors of the day and the ranger on duty was very helpful and informative.  We walked the 2 mile loop trail around the canyon seeing ruins of many structures dating back to around 1250 AD.  This canyon has been occupied from around 100 AD until a period of warming and drought in the mid 1300s caused the residents to leave the canyon for more arable fields for their agriculture.  Some believe that these people eventually gave rise to the Hopi and other pueblo cultures of the Southwest.  After walking the loop trail, we drove to some additional ruins and walked shorter trails (less than a mile) to see how the people lived.  We were fascinated that the structures that were built nearly 800 years ago using local stones and mud mortar are mostly standing.  Some of these structures are two and three stories in height.  Our modern buildings often are obsolete in 20 years!  The ruins included housing, grain storage and ceremonial structures.  Openings in the masonry walls were placed to note the solstices and other astronomical events.

In addition to the Pueblo ruins, we were fascinated by the abundance and variety of lizards.  We saw many small sagebrush lizards, and plateau whiptail lizards.  The whiptails are the lizards that are always noted in biology books as examples of parthenogenesis since no male lizards have ever been identified.  Adult female whiptails lay unfertilized eggs that develop into female whiptails.  We understand that the area has a large population of collared lizards but we were unable to see any despite our best efforts.

On the way to the El Cajon area of Hovenweep, we had to drive over a couple of miles of really bad road with dirt and slick rock.  We had to travel at a crawl but the little Toyota Corolla rental car did really well.  We also noticed buried pipeline for carbon dioxide that we later learned carried waste CO2 to an experimental carbon sequestration area.

After leaving Hovenweep, which means “deserted valley”, we drove through Cortez, Colorado to the Anasazi Heritage Museum in Dolores, Colorado.  We had no idea what a great museum this is.  Outside there is a great display of native plant life with identifying signage.  There is also a one mile trail up the canyon to a 360^o overlook of the McPhee Reservoir and the surrounding mountain ranges.

We made our way to the Days Inn in Cortez to crash before going to dinner at El Burro Pancho a local favorite.  Like many of the restaurants we visited, El Burro Pancho was tiny and most of the diners were local.  Mary had barbacoa that she says is the best she has ever had.  It was tender and flavorful.  When I travel in the Southwest, I like to get mole since there are so many ways of making it.  My pollo mole was deep, dark and smokey with sprinkled sesame seeds on top.  It was outstanding!  Both of us had huge portions but it was so good that we didn’t want to waste a bite.  Mary thinks that this was the best meal we have had on our trip so far.

We are within 10 miles of Mesa Verde National Park so we will not have to leave early tomorrow although we continue to wake up at 5 am.  When we leave Mesa Verde, we will drive to Farmington, New Mexico where we will stay at the Super 8.

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